click to biggify – the cuffs are turned back to show the other side of the cloth
This coat is another double weave with areas of pique’. The ribs are ‘stuffed’ with strands of lopi type wool.
The fabric was woven with the ribs horizontal in the loom, then turned or ‘railroaded’ so that the weft is vertical on the body.
Darlene very cleverly made it so that it is reversible. The blue is hand dyed silk. The white yarn is a fine wool merino.
Darlene machine knit the edge trim with the fine merino in order to perfectly match the cloth.
The finished fabric doesn’t look very much different from the loom state. And yes, this fabric was given a hard press in order to flatten it and make it easier to sew.
Unfortunately I haven’t worn it much as it is dressier than my lifestyle calls for. 🙂